ProtoSimTech PT2 Pedals

What are the ProtoSimTech PT2 Pedals?

• Excellent quality load cell pedals at a then very reasonable price (2013-2022)
• The clutch on the PT-2s has a novel spring-loaded physical resistance mechanism to approximate what a clutch feels like in a real car
• Probably surpassed by other pedals at this point but excellent pedals and I'm still using them in 2026
• ProtoSimTech closed down in 2022
• Replacement parts are no longer available for purchase from ProtoSimTech but many of the smaller pieces are off-the-shelf pieces and there's a good chance you could buy replacements at Home Depot, Amazon, or other places
  • I wouldn't worry, I haven't needed any replacement parts since I bought mine in 2018
• Other parts like rubber washers can be replaced with parts from Heusinkveld who make their own high quality pedals and parts
• Archive.org Website Copy (Apr 5, 2023) - Last valid website archive

In-Depth Review Video

• Excellent video from Barry Rowland's Sim Racing Garage YouTube channel
• Complete first impressions, build, part analysis, and gameplay review

Calibration

• PT2 Adjustments and Calibration [Video] - Batch 1-3 with Sensitivity Potentiometer Box Adjustment
  • DIView for USB Devices - Software to View and Calibrate USB Inputs
    • See DIView
• DIView Brake Load Cell Calibration [Video] - Video is labeled for "Batch #5" but it applies to all batches as it's at the USB inputs level.
• Throttle Calibration (7m05s) [Video] - Including zeroing out the throttle potentiometer by hand so DIView tracks correctly from zero.
  • Video labeled Batch #5 but this part should apply to other batches.
  • Throttle zero calibration is touchy. You can't just turn the screw left until DIView reports zero. If you go to far it may create a deadzone where you have to push through before any input registers. It's sensitive. So turn left just enough that you still have immediate throttle response in DIView from zero.
• Calibration for PT2 batch #4 and later [Video] - Batch 4+ with Sensitivity Software Adjustment
  • Configuration Software (See Product Downloads tab)

Tips

A Precision Screwdriver Set Will Go A Long Way With These Pedals

• tl;dr Precision tool sets are almost required to work on some of the inner parts of the pedals. Buy yourself a precision screwdriver set.
  • Examples:
    • Precision Screwdriver Set, Lifegoo 122pcs Magnetic Repair Tool Kit with 101 Magnetic Drill Bits Mini Screwdriver Set with Case [Amazon]
      • The flexible screwdriver extension came in really handy for calibrating the throttle which requires loosening a ridiculously tiny inner hex bolt that tightened the calibration screw
      • A precision flathead screwdriver was required to adjust the calibration screw which only really neatly fit through a small half inch hole so a small enough screw driver with enough length was required
    • Otherwise, search Amazon or your favourite store for "precision screwdrivers" or "precision tool kit"
• Case: Throttle calibration requires loosening a hex bolt with a crazy small size that requires a screwdriver extension to reach from the back of the pedals
  • The actual flathead adjustment screw could only be reached through a hole so having a screwdriver small enough but long enough is required

Gotchas

Calibration may not reflect in game immediately

• You may have to restart the game or rebind the control before the calibration takes effect in-game
• This might be related to DIView or the Leo Bodnar Configuration Software (See Product Downloads tab)

Try From Defaults Again Even If You Have Already Calibrated

• I thought I had a my brake calibrated already but GTR2 wasn't noticing the control when I was trying to rebind
• So I restored to defaults on the Brake in DIView and found that Raw and Regular values now matched up perfectly with perfect zero and max deadzones, and it just worked in-game
• I don't exactly know got me confused there
• I did have it calibrated on an old Brake controller, with a physical potentiometer sensitivity know, and perhaps on the new software configured controller, DIView isn't needed

Brake Calibration

• Sensitivity Potentiometer Box Adjustment:
  • Heavier brake feel: Turn Left - Decrease Sensitivity
  • Lighter brake feel: Turn Right - Increase Sensitivity
• Recommendations:
  • Start in the middle
  • Adjust by 90degs either way and test, then by 45degs and test, then by 22.5degs and test, and so on
  • I am somewhere between straight left and straight up ie. 25-50%

Upgrades

Upgrading Leo Bodnar BU0836-LC Load Cell Joystick Controller 12-bit to Leo Bodnar Load Cell Interface LC-USB 16-bit

• Upgrading ProtoSimTech PT-2 pedals from Leo Bodnar BU0836-LC Load Cell Joystick Controller 12-bit to Leo Bodnar Load Cell Interface LC-USB 16-bit
• Whole process was pretty easy actually and took less than an hour
• Old throttle and brake fit connectors easily
• Confusing to know which pin headers the throttle and brake go on. Easy to correct, though, once you confirm in a game.
• Brake pins go in the 4-pin dedicated screw-in housing pretty easily, just need a small screwdriver
• LC-USB Configuration v2.exe easy enough to use
  • Leo Bodnar Configuration Software (See Product Downloads tab)
• DIView can be used to dial-in min/max pedal range and is useful for setting deadzones by hand
  • You might want to manually set deadzones for games that don't have deadzone adjustments or are missing either lower or upper deadzone adjustment
    • I might be wrong here as GTR2 seems to bypass DIView deadzones and I had to use the in-game deadzone setting.
  • DIView can be used to reduce the foot weight/pressure required to hit 100% by reducing the max pedal range
    • Right-click on the Brake axes window > View Raw Data, press the Brake until you want that feel to be 100% and note the raw number, then right-click > Calibration and set Min/Center/Max
      • Setting Min/Center/Max: Re-use the previous Min, set the new Max, set the Center to (Min + Max) / 2
• I was able to stick the new, smaller controller board into the old plastic housing of the old board to provide it some protection
• Leo Bodnar LC-USB 16bit Load Cell Interface Review. [Video] - Raja Simracing (2022)
  • Super helpful video about converting pedals to the 16bit Bodnar controller.
  • Even though they're Fanatec pedals it's still incredibly helpful
  • Video covers wiring, Bodnar software configuration, DIView calibration, and in-game results
  • Video Table of Contents:
    • 0:00​ - Intro
    • 0:27 - Closer look
    • 0:42 - Wiring Guide
    • 1:09 - Connecting to SimForge pedals
    • 1:40 - Bodnar Software Configuration
    • 2:05 - DIView calibration
    • 2:54 - Testing out in ACC
    • 3:12 - Final Thoughts

Troubleshooting

Brakes Too Easy To Press / No Longer Takes Strength To Reach Max Brake Application

• tl;dr I removed the screws on my controller box and it started applying the appropriate heavy feel per the knob rotation
  • Something must be getting compressed in there and it stops working for some reason
  • It turned out to be soldering loosening on the connections to the small knob board (three wires). As a temporary fix, I used electrical tape to make the connections a little more robust and that fixed it.
    • This worked for many months and it was fine but eventually the contacts started coming apart again. At this point, I upgraded to a new controller that had software calibration: #Upgrading Leo Bodnar BU0836-LC Load Cell Joystick Controller 12-bit to Leo Bodnar Load Cell Interface LC-USB 16-bit
• At some point, my brake load cell seemed to be stuck on the easiest, lightest setting regardless of what I set the control box knob to
• After unscrewing the controller box to see if anything was disconnected, or looked broken, the appropriate brake pressure / heavy feel started working again
• Using DIView, I could see the actuation number and gauge based on how much pressure I was putting on the pedal
• Now it takes significant brake pressure to reach 100% brake, which is what I want
• Update:
  • Still a problem. Appears to be frayed wire strands on the small potentiometer board connections touching each other
  • Separated them with electrical tape and that seems to have fixed the problem for now
  • I will be upgrading the existing BU0836-LC Load Cell Joystick 12-Bit Controller to a Load Cell Interface LC-USB 16-bit
    • Update: I upgraded here: #Upgrading Leo Bodnar BU0836-LC Load Cell Joystick Controller 12-bit to Leo Bodnar Load Cell Interface LC-USB 16-bit
    • Bonus: Instead of a potentiometer knob, the brake feel can now be adjusted in software using Leo Bodnar Configuration Software which is available on the same product page
      • Leo Bodnar Configuration Software (See Product Downloads tab)
  • I managed to contact Chris from ProtoSimTech, as well as Bodnar support, and they both indicated it was a valid upgrade path for the pedal inputs
  • Looking forward to the higher 16-bit resolution (65536 steps) as 12-bit (4096 steps) just seems a little too low resolution to me although if I'm being honest I'm not sure I could tell through my foot